The molecule used in the Vitamin C capsule is Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (2% in a treatment prepared with the Emuage machine), an advanced, lipophilic form of vitamin C that is revolutionizing anti-aging skin care. Its liposoluble nature enables optimal penetration through the skin barrier. Its stability in cosmetic formulations is better than that of traditional vitamin C, but remains limited.

The Emuage machine enables the full potential of this renowned molecule to be exploited: the finished product can be applied to the skin directly after manufacture, the active ingredient being mixed in at the last moment, and not 2 years later as is the case with store-bought creams. Emuage skincare products should be used within 2 months of manufacture.

Benefits
Brightens and evens skin tone
Protects skin with antioxidant action
Firms skin and reduces wrinkles

How it works
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate effectively penetrates the stratum corneum thanks to its lipophilic nature, bypassing the impermeability barrier encountered by pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Once absorbed, this molecule is gradually converted into active ascorbic acid by skin enzymes. This gradual release ensures prolonged bioavailability and continuous action in the various layers of the epidermis and dermis.

In biochemical terms, it acts as an essential cofactor in collagen synthesis, stabilizing the enzymes prolyl and lysyl hydroxylases, essential for the formation of a stable collagen structure. At the same time, it inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the melanin production cascade, by reducing the oxidation of L-tyrosine and L-DOPA.

Its ability to surrender electrons also enables it to neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS) before they damage cell membranes and DNA, thus preserving the structural and functional integrity of skin cells.

Studies
An experiment on human melanoma cell culture showed an 80% reduction in melanogenesis.

A double-blind, placebo-controlled study carried out on half the face assessed the anti-wrinkle effect of this active ingredient at concentrations of 1%, 2% and 3% for 8 weeks in 23 women. All 3 concentrations significantly reduced wrinkles (with little difference between the different concentrations).

According to another study, it offers protection against UV-A rays and increases collagen synthesis. In equal concentrations, it penetrates 3 times better than ascorbic acid.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Lecithin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride